Choosing the right attic insulation can make the difference between comfortable indoor temperatures and sky-high energy bills. We've walked into countless homes where families were bundled up in sweaters during winter, cranking the thermostat higher and higher, only to watch their money disappear through poorly insulated attics.

Here's the truth: most homes are throwing money away every month. Studies show roughly 90% of single-family homes don't have enough insulation. We see this when we inspect attics - thin layers of old, compressed material that might have worked decades ago but doesn't cut it today.

Understanding your options helps you avoid the frustration of choosing the wrong material for your specific situation, climate, and budget. In this guide, we'll walk you through everything you need to make the right choice:

What you'll find in this article:

What are the different types of attic insulation materials?

There are four primary types of attic insulation materials commonly used in residential applications. Each has distinct characteristics that make them suitable for different situations:

  • Fiberglass Batt Insulation - Pre-cut panels that fit between joists and rafters. This pink, cotton-candy-looking material comes in standard widths and is the most recognizable type of insulation.

  • Blown-in Cellulose - Made from recycled paper products treated with fire retardants. It's blown into place using special equipment, creating a dense layer that fills gaps effectively.

  • Blown-in Fiberglass - Loose fiberglass material applied with pneumatic equipment. Unlike batts, this method allows the insulation to fill irregular spaces and around obstacles.

  • Spray Foam Insulation - Liquid chemicals that expand and harden upon application. This creates an airtight seal and provides excellent thermal performance, though at a higher cost.

The bottom line: The material you choose depends on your home's current insulation, your budget, local climate conditions, and whether you're doing new construction or retrofitting an existing attic space.

What R value do I need for attic insulation?

Understanding R-Value

R-value shows how well insulation stops heat from moving through it. Think of it like a winter coat - a thicker coat keeps you warmer. Higher R-value numbers mean better insulation.

When heat tries to escape through your attic, R-value tells you how much the insulation slows it down. R-30 insulation stops heat 30 times better than no insulation at all. R-49 is even better at keeping heat where it belongs.

This matters for your wallet. Better insulation means your heating and cooling systems don't work as hard. That saves you money every month on energy bills.

Climate Requirements for Ohio and Michigan

Here in Ohio, building codes require a minimum R-value of R-38 for attic floors. From what we've seen working in the area, R-49 to R-60 gives better results, especially during our cold winters and humid summers.

In Michigan, particularly around Farmington Hills where we work, R-49 to R-60 is essential. The extra investment pays off through lower heating bills during those long winter months.

Calculating Your Needs

Most attics need 12 to 15 inches of insulation to get good R-values. If you have 6 inches or less right now, adding more will cut your energy bills. How much you need depends on what type you pick, since different materials work differently.

Fiberglass vs cellulose: which is better?

These two blown-in options represent the most popular choices for existing homes, and each has distinct advantages depending on your priorities.

Performance Comparison

Here's what we've learned from hundreds of installations: blown-in cellulose gives you R-3.6 to R-3.8 per inch, while blown-in fiberglass delivers R-2.2 to R-2.7 per inch. While cellulose has higher R-value per inch, this advantage disappears over time due to settling.

The Critical Difference: Settling

Here's the key factor most people don't consider: cellulose settles significantly over time - typically losing 10-20% of its thickness within the first few years. This means your R-value decreases permanently, and you're left with less insulation than you paid for.

Blown-in fiberglass doesn't settle. This means the insulation performance you get on day one is what you'll have for decades. While it may start with a lower R-value per inch, it maintains that performance consistently.

Installation and Cost Differences

  • Both materials require professional installation with specialized equipment

  • Cellulose installation tends to be slightly more expensive upfront

  • Blown-in fiberglass offers better long-term value due to no settling issues

  • The total project cost usually ends up being comparable

  • Fiberglass maintains its loft permanently while cellulose continues to compress over time

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Cellulose wins on environmental impact:

  • Made from 80-85% recycled paper

  • Treated with boric acid for fire and pest resistance

  • Fiberglass requires more energy to manufacture

However, the performance benefits of fiberglass often outweigh environmental considerations for most homeowners prioritizing long-term value.

From a safety standpoint, both materials are safe when properly installed, though cellulose creates more dust during installation.

Fiberglass batt insulation pros and cons

Fiberglass batts remain popular for their simplicity and cost-effectiveness, though they're not always the best choice for every situation.

When Fiberglass Batts Work Well

  • New construction or major renovations where you have clean, open access to joist bays

  • Planning to finish your attic later - batts won't get in your way like blown-in material might

  • DIY-friendly projects - batts offer the most straightforward installation process

  • Fire safety - fiberglass won't burn, and it stays put over time

  • Durability - properly installed batts maintain their thickness year after year

The Real-World Challenges

The catch with batts? Perfect installation is harder than it looks. We've seen too many DIY jobs where small gaps around pipes and wiring completely undermine the insulation's effectiveness. Even tiny openings can slash your energy savings significantly.

Additional challenges include:

  • Batts compress when stepped on - permanently reducing R-value in those spots

  • Makes future attic visits problematic compared to blown-in materials that bounce back

  • Difficult to achieve complete coverage around irregular spaces

Cost and Performance Reality

While batts have the lowest material cost, they often perform worst in real homes due to installation challenges. The money you save doing it yourself can be lost through higher energy bills if the installation isn't perfect.

Blown in cellulose insulation benefits

Cellulose has gained popularity among environmentally conscious homeowners, and for good reason. The material offers several advantages that make it stand out from other options.

Superior Air Sealing Properties

The dense nature of cellulose means it fills gaps and cracks that other insulation types might miss. This creates better overall thermal performance than what the R-value alone would suggest.

In older homes particularly, where air leakage is more common, cellulose's ability to reduce air movement translates into noticeable comfort improvements and energy savings.

Environmental Benefits

Made mostly from recycled newspaper and cardboard, cellulose keeps waste out of landfills while giving excellent insulation performance. Making it also takes less energy compared to fiberglass.

Key environmental advantages:

  • 80-85% recycled content

  • Natural fire and pest resistance from boric acid treatment

  • No harmful chemicals released compared to some synthetic materials

Long-term Performance

Here's the major drawback: cellulose settles significantly over time, typically losing 10-20% of its thickness within the first few years. This means your R-value decreases permanently, and you end up with less insulation performance than you originally paid for.

While the material doesn't lose R-value when wet like fiberglass does, the settling issue often outweighs this benefit for most homeowners seeking long-term value.

Professional installation can minimize initial settling through proper density, but some degree of settling is inevitable with cellulose regardless of installation quality.

Spray foam insulation for attics

Spray foam represents the premium option in attic insulation, offering superior performance at a correspondingly higher price point.

Open-Cell vs Closed-Cell Options

  • Open-cell spray foam costs less and provides good insulation with some sound dampening benefits. It expands to fill spaces effectively but allows some moisture permeability.

  • Closed-cell foam offers higher R-value per inch (R-6 to R-7) and creates a complete vapor barrier. This makes it ideal for homes in harsh climates or those seeking maximum energy efficiency.

When Spray Foam Makes Sense

Spray foam excels in situations where air sealing is critical. Consider it if your attic has:

  • Complex shapes and numerous penetrations

  • Significant air leakage issues

  • Ductwork located in the attic space - can be applied directly to the roof deck

  • New construction or major renovations where you're already investing heavily

Investment Considerations

Spray foam costs 2-4 times more than other options, but here's the thing - it delivers performance you can't get anywhere else. We typically see it pay for itself through energy savings in 5-8 years, especially in newer homes or major renovations where you're already investing heavily.

Important: The material demands professional installation and proper ventilation during application. This isn't a weekend DIY project - the chemicals require expertise to handle safely and effectively.

How much does attic insulation cost?

Understanding insulation costs helps you budget appropriately and compare the long-term value of different options.

Material and Installation Costs

  • Fiberglass batts: $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot installed - cheapest option for smaller projects

  • Blown-in cellulose: $2.00 to $4.00 per square foot

  • Blown-in fiberglass: $1.75 to $3.50 per square foot - costs a bit less than cellulose

  • Spray foam: $3.00 to $7.00 per square foot - premium option, price depends on which type you choose

What Affects Your Total Cost

Attic accessibility matters a lot for labor costs:

  • Low roofs or attics with lots of obstacles take more time and careful work

  • Removing old insulation adds to the cost, but might be needed if your current material is damaged, dirty, or just not enough

  • The size of your attic affects the total cost - bigger homes need more material and labor

Return on Investment

Most attic insulation upgrades pay for themselves within 3-7 years through lower energy bills. Higher-end materials like spray foam may take longer to pay back but save more money long-term.

Good insulation also makes your home worth more and more comfortable. These benefits go beyond just energy savings.

Best insulation for cold weather

Living in Ohio and Michigan means dealing with significant temperature swings and extended cold periods. Your insulation choice needs to perform reliably in these challenging conditions.

Performance in Extreme Cold

We've learned that blown-in cellulose holds its insulating value better than fiberglass when temperatures really drop. There were older concerns about fiberglass losing effectiveness in extreme cold, though modern types have largely solved this issue.

Spray foam gives you the most consistent performance regardless of temperature swings - something worth considering for homes in the coldest parts of Michigan and northern Ohio.

Moisture Management

Cold climates create more chances for condensation problems in attics:

  • Cellulose handles getting damp much better than fiberglass - keeping most of its insulating ability even when moisture is present

  • Spray foam creates the best moisture barrier, but installation has to be done right to avoid trapping moisture where it shouldn't be

What We Recommend for Our Climate

For most homes in our area, blown-in fiberglass gives the best long-term performance due to its non-settling properties. We usually recommend R-49 to R-60 coverage for good winter performance.

Top choices by situation:

  • New construction or major renovations: Closed-cell spray foam delivers better results that justify the extra cost

  • Existing homes: Blown-in fiberglass for superior long-term value with no settling issues

  • Budget-conscious projects: Fiberglass batts can work in well-sealed homes but need careful installation to avoid gaps that hurt performance in cold weather

The most important thing is proper installation by people who understand local conditions. Good installation matters more than which specific material you choose.

Ready to improve your home's comfort and energy efficiency? Contact Integrity Home Exteriors today for a comprehensive attic assessment. We'll evaluate your current insulation, identify areas for improvement, and recommend the best solution for your specific needs and budget. Our experienced team serves homeowners throughout Ohio and the Farmington Hills, Michigan area with reliable, professional insulation services backed by our lifetime workmanship guarantee.